Maine's Sunshine Coast

Nancy caught the surf at just the right moment!  Photographer's daughter....



Monday 13 May

Calais, Maine

Tonight, we're just across the border - and the river - from New Brunswick, Canada. Hockey's on the telly, and we're sorting through the next set of maps and information: all the stuff we have for the Maritime Provinces of Canada.

Today was bright and sunny all day, showing us what we'd missed in the fog and rain yesterday. It was breezy, though, and pretty chilly when not in the sun. And, in some cases, it was still cold! But, just beautiful weather, nonetheless.

We ate breakfast in the Reading Room of the Bar Harbor Inn, part of the old Inn that used to see famous clientele such as the Rockefellers, back in the day. We checked out of the hotel (knowing full well we'd be in more modest digs tonight!) and picked up a few more things in the shops in town. We hope Amelia will enjoy her catnip-stuffed "lobster claw," for example.

We set off to the north again, leaving Mt Desert Island. We did have to follow a road striper part of the way though, which was kind of interesting. How could he stripe the road so carefully? As always, we noticed the hotels, motels, and inns are preparing for the season to come: if they're not open yet (and most aren't), they have worker's vans in the parking lot. Also, somewhat random, but I meant to mention this - there are lots and lots and lots of houses and properties for sale all along the Maine coast. In fact, it's been more unusual to see a house that's not for sale. Hmm...

We swung down to the Schoodic peninsula, the south tip of which is also part of Acadia NP. In today's sun, we got to see the rocks, trees, and water in brilliant glory, and with practically nobody else around. Magnificent rocks, smooth and chunky, piled up along the shore. Waves crashing dramatically up against the rocks. And, that ever-present scent of pine. Wonderful - even if a bit chilly!

We finally said goodbye to Acadia, and started winding our way eastwards, ducking down a couple more peninsulas along the way. More farmland and open country along most of these roads, and we started to see signs of Maine's famous blueberry industry. We had lunch in a little roadside pub in Birch Harbor, where locals and local Navy alike were having lunch, playing darts, etc.

Started to stick to route 1 a little more, but with some forays down 1A and some other secondary highways. It seemed that we were heading away from the main tourist areas, but that's not a surprise. That means, though, there are fewer places to stay along the way, and so we had a bit of a guessing game about where we'd end up. We thought we'd stay in Lubec, "the easternmost town in the USA," but there appeared to be few lodgings, and those that are there weren't open anyway. Not a problem - just keep heading up the road!

We did see Quoddy Head Lighthouse, and the easternmost point. Quoddy House Lighthouse is cute - horizontal red stripes like a candy cane, sort of. Beautiful views out to the Grand Manan Channel, and Campobello Island - a retreat for the Roosevelt family.

We carried on to Calais, here at the border, and found a place to stay, finally. I was lured by a huge sign "INDOOR SWIMMING POOL" but my hopes were cruelly dashed, because it turns out the pool is closed! Oh well, we have a clean, safe, quiet place to stay for the night, and that's what's important. We had a nice little walk into the small center of town, had dinner in a place called "Karen's Korner Pub," and a nice walk back, too. Pretty sunset tonight.

Another random observation about Maine: we've seen many, many roadside stands with firewood for sale. Turns out, if you want a campfire in Maine, you need to burn wood from Maine "buy it where you burn it." This helps keep out forest diseases that could devastate Maine's important forestry industry.

Another random observation: how many businesses make a play on the state name in their business name: "Maine-ly Maine" etc. Why not?

Tomorrow: into the Great White North!

Cheers,

--Kit and Nancy